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Welcome to Rioja, in the northeast of Spain.
The Sierra Cantabria mountain range is the spine that runs through the wine
region.
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The "little bush" training system that is
used everywhere in Rioja.
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Another ubiquitous feature: tapas, originally designed to tide people over
until Spain's late dinner hour.
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Paella alternates with grilled meats and
jamon as Spain's favorite dish.
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The tour begins in the Ribera de Duero
region. Here is a castle overlooking the Duero river and town of
Peñafiel.
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The Cathdral of Burgos, the third largest in
Spain, is a sightseeing stop en route from Peñafiel to Rioja.
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Modern architecture, coupled with traditional
wine, at the Lopez di Heredia winery.
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Rioja's traditional, long-aged, semi-oxidized
style is the hallmark of Lopez di Heredia. Our tastings start here, to see
Rioja's stylistic origins.
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Modern-style Rioja is found at Roda. Here we
see the family's emblem, the thistle, in their barrrel-aging room.
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A field trip takes us to the experimental
vineyards of Roda, which is a leader in research on the 452 clonal varieites
of tempranillo, the key grape in Rioja wine.
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With Roda export manager Gonzalo Lainez, in
their sleek tasting room.
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The Roda line-up includes three stellar
Riojas, plus olive oil.
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A castle in Samaniego faces Remirez de
Ganuza, one of the boutique Rioja wineries born in the 1980’s.
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The comfy Vieja Bodega, a countryside
restaurant where local winemakers come to dine and talk shop.
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Restaurant co-owner Marina in La Vieja
Bodega's well-stocked wine cellar.
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The Guggenheim Bilbao, designed by Frank
Gehry, is a worthy side trip one morning.
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The elegant Baroque town of Briones, once
home to noble families, now houses boutique winemakers like Miguel Merino.
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Spanish Gothic architecture inside the
Cathedral of Briones.
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Miguel Merino runs what he proclaims is, "the
smallest winery in Rioja," -- and one of the finest.
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Au naturel: Merino's winery gear includes
this bundle of vine canes used for filtration.
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Ancient ruins dot the Rioja countryside.
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Enologist and agronomist Jesus de Madrazo
Mateo outside the Contino winery, which pioneered the practice of
Bordeaux-style chateaux in Rioja.
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An old aging barrel, twice the size of the
adjacent door at Contino.
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In the cellar, the winemaker offers an
impromptu tasting of Graciano, a local grape Contino helped save from
extinction.
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Sampling Contino's delectable Riojas in the
formal tasting room with the winemaker.
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After designing the Guggenheim Bilbao,
architect Frank Gehry was invited to do a hotel and spa at the Marques di
Riscal winery. Here we see the architectural model.
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The Marques di Riscal's new building, in the
flesh.
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The winery dedicated a label in 2001 to the
American architect, Frank Gehry.
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A key winery historically, the Marques di
Riscal was the first to bottle Rioja for commercial release -- in 1862.
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Muga, a traditionalist in Rioja winemaking,
uses only oak for wine storage and has its own cooperage inside the winery.
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Some of Muga's vast tracts of oak. Though a
traditionalist in style, the winery makes fresh, modern wines.
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Swans adorn a fountain dedicated to the grape
varieties of Spain.
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