THE AMALFI COAST

A moody sky on the Amalfi Coast, one of Italy's most spectacular coastlines.

Walking up the cone of Vesuvius, which is still smoldering.

The Garden of the Refugees in Pompeii -- where 13 people died under the ashes of Vesuvius but now once again is green with apple trees and grape vines.

The Osteria of the Gladiators: One of the vineyards in Pompeii that the Mastroberardino winery has resurrected in collaboration with archaeologists.

Cold fermentation isn't a modern invention. In Pompeii, wine was fermented underground in these doli, so the naturally cool earth would help keep fermentation temperatures in check.

Villa Cimbrone, a hideway of Greta Garbo, in the town of Ravello, where our first hotel is located.

A tasting of Campania wines on our hotel balcony, with pointers on How to Taste.

Amalfi, one of the most powerful cities on the Mediterranean during the Middle Ages.  Here stands the spectacular Italian Romanesque cathedral.

One of the gourmet shops in Amalfi, offering limoncello and other local goodies.

Watching boats come into the port of Amalfi.

The enologist and co-owner of Marisa Cuomo winery offers a presentation on their wines, with photos of the seasonal steps in winemaking.

The terraced vineyards of Amalfi's sea cliffs.

Harvest day on the vineyard terraces: all is done by hand.

"What type of grape is this?" Marisa Cuomo's harvesters take a break to talk with passers-by.

Another way to check the grape variety.

Vineyard workers continue to bring in the harvest the old way on these steep, terraced hills.

A sturdy worker takes a breather and admires the view.

Afraid of heights? No way! Here's proof.

Catching a view on the swank and scenic Isle of Capri.

Two old friends waiting for some fresh seafood at the port of Capri.

One of the coastal paths leading down to the sea.

Taken by surprise: a household's billygoats on the way to the Fiord of Furore.

The Fiord of Furore, which lets the tide reach one of the Amalfi Coast's tiny fishing villages.

Fresh from the Mediterranean: seafood-based cuisine is everywhere on the Amalfi Coast.

A toast to our farewell dinner, overlooking Positano.